Glamour and Mischief!: Hollywood's "Undercover Costume Designer" Michael Woulfe takes a lighthearted look at dressing the stars of the Golden Age-and working for eccentric Howard Hughes by David V. Jervis
My rating: 5 of 5 stars

Unfiltered memoir meets unapologetic hagiography in a lively ebook that illustrates the transformation of native Brooklynite William Goldstein (aka Shmuleck – yiddish for recollection) to Michael Woulfe, the youngest Chief Costume Designer at a major studio (and ad-hoc right hand of RKO-owner Howard Hughes) to dapper retiree, cultivator of ravishing roses and resplendent reminiscer of blondes, brunettes and bosoms.

Full disclosure – I’ve had the pleasure and privilege of being acquainted with Mr. Woulfe and Mr. Jervis, and, much to my surprise, I’m mentioned in the prologue. Reading the book was like revisiting delightful afternoons with dear friends – one, a legendary costume designer, and the other, a graphic designer extraordinaire. Both were born storytellers, which is what makes “Glamour & Mischief such a hoot.

To rephrase Bill Hader’s Saturday Night Live character Stefon, this book has everything, Stars and starlets. Pseudonyms and secret assignations. Madcap shenanigans and the “Mormon Penthouse Mafia”. If you’ve ever wanted a behind-the-scenes peek at a Golden Age Hollywood studio, to know what it’s like to sleep at Joan Crawford’s house or to ride shotgun on a covert mission for an eccentric billionaire, “Glamour & Mischief” is an absolute must-read.

The literary lover will discover that it’s a beautifully written tale of enduring relationships: 1) Mr. Woulfe and the inscrutable Mr. Hughes, related via Woulfe’s unpublished manuscript, “Hello, Mike, This is Howard” and, 2) Mr. Jervis and Mr. Woulfe, friends brought together by a “Guest Apartment for Rent” sign, conveyed through a series of vivacious vignettes.

The Hollywood history buff will revel in encounters with Woulfe contemporaries on and off the set, including Jane Russell (to whom he introduced Marilyn Monroe), Jean Simmons, Debbie Reynolds and Sylvia Sidney, just to name a few. Plus, we also get the inside scoop on what the pregnant Judy Garland stashed in the opulently oversized sable muff her created for her to carry to the premiere of “A Star is Born” and where Ava Gardner hid out, pre-divorce from Frank Sinatra.

The film and costume aficionado will be thrilled to discover Woulfe’s contributions to more than 60 films, including noir classics “Clash By Night”, “Angel Face” and “Beware My Lovely”. Gorgeous sketches paired with wardrobe stills and publicity photos of completed gowns give inspiring insight into Mr. Woulfe’s creativity and artistry (along with lessons in coping with a maddening, mammary-mesmerized employer).

What else can I tell you about “Glamour & Mischief“? Read it now and be transported by the Hollywood lore you haven’t heard yet.


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Revolutionary Brand Collabs: From Halston to H&M and Beyond

“Fashion has a long interest in collaborative situations.”—Raf Simons

Although the designer-brand collaboration is now ubiquitous—especially the kind that makes high-end style more wallet-friendly—there was a time when it was an innovative relationship doomed to failure. At least that’s what Halston discovered in 1983 when he launched Halston III women’s sportswear with JCPenney. Bergdorf Goodman was aghast that the couturier and world-renowned pal of Bianca Jagger, Liza Minnelli and Liz Taylor had diminished his brand by going mass. They dumped Halston’s signature line, striking the first of many blows that eventually killed his couture business.

Despite the monumental consequences, Halston was ahead of his time. Approximately 20 years later, the retail climate had evolved, allowing Isaac Mizrahi to embark on what became a six-year partnership with Target. When his women’s sportswear collection first launched in 2003, Mizrahi told Women’s Wear Daily he wasn’t selling out, he was reaching out. 

Although it’s hard to believe now, H&M has been bringing haute designer styling to your local shopping center for a decade. Karl Lagerfeld was the Swedish brand’s first designer-collaborator, followed by a veritable who’s who of fashion luminaries, including Stella McCartney, Maison Martin Margiela, Marni, Isabel Marant, Donatella Versace, Alber Elbaz, Jimmy Choo, Comme des Garcons, Sonia Rykiel, Viktor & Rolf, Roberto Cavalli, Lanvin...once you get started on the list, it’s almost impossible to stop. Fortunately you can get the lowdown on the H&M’s entire collaborative history with the soon-to-be-released book, “The First Ten Years.” Chronicling previous collections and campaigns—plus some behind-the-scenes footage—this book’s a fashion-lover’s must-have.


EXTREME STYLE: ALEXANDER WANG x H&M
Coinciding with the book launch, H&M’s highly anticipated Alexander Wang collection will be in stores on—are you ready?—November 6. Wang recently premiered his hybrid high-fashion performance wear to a star-studded crowd at an indoor track and field space in Harlem, replete with parkour, gymnastics and cannons loaded with confetti. Be on the lookout for his sporty, heroic and verging-on-superhuman collection seamless knitted leggings and tops, neoprene sweats, reflective mesh separates and more.

Alexander Wang for H&M Collection

DIGITAL DISPLAY: MARY KATRANTZOU X ADIDAS ORIGINALS
Like Mizrahi, another master of the high and low—Jeremy Scott—began a long-running collaboration with Adidas, bringing wit and humor to the brand and winning the allegiance of sneaker aficionados everywhere. British designer Mary Katrantzou makes her mark on Adidas with her fusion of high fashion and high-tech streetwear. With her innovative use of color, print and other applications, she creates a runway-worthy collection that’s too beautiful for the gym. 

Mary Katrantzou x Adidas Originals

SNEAK ATTACK: J.CREW x NEW BALANCE
I can’t imagine why I’m partial to the men’s New Balance for J.Crew 998 Concrete Jungle Sneakers. The orange-and-green color palette of this super limited-edition version was inspired by the nature motif of an underground club in NYC. The series is also available in other urban-yet-urbane colorways, including Pebble Blue, Dark Military and New Navy.

Men’s New Balance for J.Crew 998 Sneakers

PATTERN PLAY: CONVERSE x MISSION
Missoni has been bringing their iconic prints to Converse’s signature sneakers since 2010, and this season’s host of photo-realistic print Chuck Taylors might be their best yet. Fun fact: Converse’s high-top basketball shoes were launched in 1921 by salesman and basketball player Charles Hollis Taylor; he made numerous design suggestions to improve the shoe, including the star patch, which was placed to protect the ankles. It wasn’t until 1932 that Taylor’s name was added to the patch.  

Converse x Missoni Chuck Taylor All Star High-Top Sneakers, Nordstrom

A TALE OF TWO CITIES: SÉZANE x MADEWELL
It seems like Americans can’t get enough French girl style inspiration, and for Morgane Sézalory, the feeling is reciprocal. As the designer behind cult-fave Sézane, she's been a longtime fan of Madewell’s timeless designs and surprising details. Her collaboration with Madewell’s head designer Somsack Sikhounmuong strikes the balance between Parisian chic and New York City cool, with quiet colors, reasonably high heels and wearable essentials. The 16-piece collection, which includes Sézane’s meme-worthy “La Superbe” sweatshirt, cozy knits and seasonless boots are selling fast. Dépêchez-vous! Get these eternally chic styles before they’re gone. 

Madewell et Sézane La Superbe Sweatshirt

Madewell et Sézane Textured Scarf, Haspen Sweater, Tweed Coat

The Gernreich Stuff

“Fashion will go out of fashion.”—Rudi Gernreich

In the 1960s and 70s, a fashion designer, a model and a photographer dominated the Los Angeles art scene, partnering with friends and other artists, and shaping the future of pop, minimalist and performance art. So it’s only fitting that the exhibition featuring this influential trio, The Total Look: The Creative Collaboration Between Rudi Gernriech, Peggy Moffitt, and William Claxton, was also a collective effort. Presented at the MOCA/Pacific Design Center satellite (and ending today), this remarkable show is the result of united efforts by curator, fashion historian and Decades founder Cameron Silver; coordinators Ethel Seno and Jhordan Dahl; Moffitt and Claxton's son Christopher Claxton, director of the Claxton Archive; and architectural firm Marmol Radziner, who designed the exhibition.
Gernreich was an Austrian refugee who arrived in Los Angeles in 1938, at age 16. His early experiences as a mortuary assistant, an RKO Studios sketch artist and studies with modern dance choreographer Lester Horton introduced him to the varied physicality that later infused his fashion work with motion and form. He has been credited numerous innovations including the first knit tube dress, the no-bra bra and the monokini, a topless swimsuit that had two slim straps over the shoulders, exposing the breasts. Clayton took the now-iconic photo of Moffitt in the monokini in 1964. Moffitt referred to the image, which appeared in respectable publications like Women's Wear Daily and Life, as “the shot seen around the world.” The monokini created a scandal in Chicago, where a woman as fined $100 for wearing a monokini; in San Franscisco, Mayor John Shelly was quoted as saying, “topless is at the bottom of porn;” and it was banned in Saint Tropez. 

The Total Look features ensembles from Moffitt’s own collection, and this is the first time many of them have been exhibited. Catch glimpses on Phil Pinto’s short film Pretty Pretty Peggy Moffit on Nowness.com.


Find out more about The Total Look: The Creative Collaboration Between Rudi Gernriech, Peggy Moffitt, and William Claxton.
See Pretty Pretty Peggy Moffit.
Discover The Rudi Gerneich Book by Peggy Moffitt and William Claxton. 
Order your Topless Suit Tee at MOCA.

Best in Shoe

“Before you criticize someone, you should walk 
a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize 
them, you are a mile away from them and you 
have their shoes.”—Jack Handy

What’s it like to be in the shoes of the famous? LIFE.com provides a glimpse into celebrity soles, with photographer Craig Cutler’s gallery of footwear worn by the noteworthy and notorious, ranging from 18th-century popes to present-day pop stars.

Left, Robert Frank: Red-and-Yellow Brogues, circa 1974–1975
Visionary genius Robert Frank changed the lexicon of photography and captured all levels of society with The Americans, published in 1958. Nearly 20 years later, Frank accidentally left these two-tone lace-ups behind at the Visual Studies Workshop in Rochester, N.Y.

Right, Madonna: Concert Shoes, circa 1992–1994
Beaded appliqué stars and a constellation of rhinestones add sparkle to Madonna’s satiny platforms from the Girlie Show World Tour. Notice the subtle contrast detail on the ankle strap that helps to reduce buckle-wear and stretching. Shimmer, shine and safety!

See more Shoes of the Very Famous.

Princess Lace

“I hate this nightgown. I hate all my nightgowns, and I hate all my underwear too.”—Audrey Hepburn as Princess Ann, Roman Holiday

The ivory lace dress Audrey Hepburn wore when she collected her Oscar for "Roman Holiday" will be auctioned on November 29 by Kerry Taylor Auctions in London. Some sources cite Givenchy as the designer; others credit Edith Head with the design Givenchy with alterations. According to Vogue UK, the iconic, full-skirted dress was adapted from a version designed by Edith Head that the actress wore in the last scene of Roman Holiday in 1952, and it has been valued at £40,000—£60,000. Hepburn, who called it her “lucky dress,” had given it to her mother, Ella van Heemstra; her mother, in turn, gave it to a friend who lived in America. The dress had been stored away in a box until the family put it up for sale. Before auctioneer Taylor could display the dress, she had to shave the mannequin to fit a 34-inch bust and a 24-inch waist.

Read more in the Daily Mail and the Telegraph.
See Roman Holiday.

Update 12.01.2011: A private collector purchased Ms. Hepburn’s “lucky” Oscar dress for £84,000.

I Love You, Man!

In the 1980s, Denis Piel photographed nearly every model who became a supermodel, a series campaigns for Donna Karan and a near-iconic photo of a distinctively pregnant Isabella Rossellini. 
Back then it seemed to me that for every naturalistic, sensuous image the Austrailia-raised, France-based photographer created, there was a heavily contrived nip-slip or cheeky posterior revelation weighing down his oeuvre. But now, all is forgiven in light of this image: an inimitably dapper Man Ray standing on a doorstep, an über-Mr. Rogers in a red cardi, who’d be welcome in my neighorbood any time. See more of Denis Piel’s work at everyday I show.

Another Diet Coke Warning

... or Why Branding Can Be Dangerous to Your Mental Health
The new limited edition packaging design for Diet Coke presents an unprecedented risk for consumers of the product, potentially transforming even the most laid-back addict into Patrick Burney, Julia Roberts’ terrifying OCD husband in the 1991 thriller Sleeping with the Enemy. Keep those cans in order—or else!